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East Irvine Camper Repair Near Me

Published Jun 02, 25
11 min read

Camper Awning Repair East Irvine, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the locking knobs tightened down.) I really did not see anything amiss, yet pulled back both awning just to be risk-free. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I released the awnings to dry them out. That's when I discovered that the gutter had been retreated from the wall surface (and downspout was missing) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is moved into has actually retreated from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - East Irvine Camper Repair Near Me. I'm presuming the repair service will involve replacing that whole size of rain gutter (10 feet?) and possibly using bigger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got damaged braces on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a poor tire blow-out that caused a curved axle, significant fixings, etc, and we ask yourself if the braces cracked/broke throughout the bouncy trip before we recognized the axle remained in problem. We have not had the awning out considering that it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime mechanism, and so on, is great. The rear bracket assembly is great, however the front one is fractured at the bottom and completely damaged through at the top, so that the top support arm no longer attaches to the camper.

Does this audio sensible? Also the real support arms are intact. They are white metal (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a larger gray steel - it's the gray little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The real arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm just desiring to see to it we're not being taken in out of our despair.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the whole awning was brand name new at that time. If nothing else, we would certainly like suggestions as to how we can "jerry gear" this for a while - possibly even obtain us via the summer - without having to place in a brand name brand-new awning!

If we have to go awning-less, we will, but I 'd instead discover a quick and efficient service. Anyone? Please!.

Welcome to my Motor Home Restoration Series!.?.!! I'm on action 5 of changing the roofing system of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roofing trim molding from 3 sides of the roof covering. In order to eliminate the fourth one, I need to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roofing and roof outdoor decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My RV awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be removed to establish on the ground. I drew these out. Pressing this lever releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll likewise see exactly how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off first prior to the last actions of this post (subjecting the front and back sides of the roof outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of just how the awning placing braces are screwed into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this step till the awning was on the ground but I noticed this set screw here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's an additional at the best end of the awning.) I proceeded and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, simply draw back on the bracket. Unscrewing the large lag screws that hold the recreational vehicle awning mounting braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Removing the installing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded corner at the back of the roofing.

Both lag screws eliminated from the awning placing brace on the right. Getting rid of the installing brace of the awning. As soon as the placing braces are separated, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Bear in mind, the awning rail is primarily just like a regular piece of light weight aluminum roofing side trim molding except that at the bottom side there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roofing system, this awning bar requires to be removed. If you're just changing your awning and not repairing the whole roof like me, then you wouldn't need to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently.

You might have to cut the end with an utility blade if it is covered under. Just tug it out!

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I began to pry off the awning rail, the whole point instantly snapped off and rolled up right into the awning like a window blind.

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Simply know it's coming! As soon as the screws are eliminated, the awning rail can be torn up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was fastened under it. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly break cost-free and roll up like a home window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground bit by little by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means against the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from moving in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just moves right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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Once both established screws were removed I could slide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was eliminated. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step before I can get rid of the old roof covering decking is to subject the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and back of the camper.

The following point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once again I simply pried up the vinyl insert and drew out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

Nevertheless I might wind up removing it later on if I require to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass shift. The roof covering outdoor decking plywood extends under the fiberglass skin at the back of the camper. In order to change it, this fiberglass shift should be raised. To lift that, the edge molding have to be gotten rid of.

I might turn the trim mold and mildew off the side sufficient to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. When I can swing that piece of corner molding off the side, I started to pry up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in area.

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I changed from a scraper to a rigid 6 large putty knife. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to pry it up. At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch vast taping knife. I loosened the various other edge trim in the same method, and curved it laterally just enough so that I might raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply popping with the staples. The side of the roof covering outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! So I've subjected the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Exact same bargain again. Remove some screws from the edge trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down however adhesive at this point) and then I could tug out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Now I can take out the last little rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing system plywood down. It was just glued. So I started thoroughly peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation under the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding down the roofing plywood! It is completely glued.

When I scraped up a few of the damaged little bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to bring up cleanly unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation in all. Currently I could see the steel framing beneath. Yet then the plywood started peeling up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well intact.

There is a steel enhanced tape on the base that signs up with the items with each other. I don't understand exactly how exactly they handled to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the seams beneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I swiftly understood the roofing system was losing toughness and stiffness as I drew up the top layer, so broke it off simply before the first joint. A close of the steel framework in the roofing system: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof.

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I discovered a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which means I'll finish eliminating those corner trim items right down after all. We'll get to that later. I had a considerable amount of water damage in the joint between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

It's just popping with the staples. Finally the edge of the roof decking is revealed at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roof covering substrate at the back edge of the camper. Now its time to discover the front side. Exact same deal once more. Remove some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up as well (there wasn't much holding it down yet adhesive at this moment) and after that I might yank out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. East Irvine Camper Repair Near Me. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roofing from below the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I saw there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding back the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

Once I scuffed up some of the damaged bits I got hold of a strong item of plywood and began to draw. The entire point began to pull up easily in one item without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the assemble. I do not know exactly how precisely they handled to glue whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was perfectly done. The pieces of roof covering ply are signed up with together at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly recognized the roof covering was shedding toughness and rigidity as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off just before the first joint. A close up of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches high. Right here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roof covering.

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