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Camper Repair Norco

Published Jun 08, 25
11 min read

Camper Service Norco, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

(I didn't have the securing handles tightened down.) I really did not see anything awry, but pulled back both awning simply to be secure. Many campers around us had their awnings deployed. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out. That's when I uncovered that the rainfall seamless gutter had actually been retreated from the wall (and downspout was missing out on) on the right-hand man end of the front awning.

It shows up that about 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (rainfall seamless gutter) that the awning is moved right into has retreated from the wall and twisted a bit - Camper Repair Norco. I'm thinking the repair work will entail changing that whole length of gutter (10 feet?) and probably using larger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We've got broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months earlier, we had a bad tire blow-out that caused a bent axle, significant repairs, etc, and we question if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy trip prior to we realized the axle remained in problem. We haven't had the awning out given that it remained in the shop to be repaired.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is fine. The back bracket assembly is fine, yet the front one is split at the base and totally broken through at the top, so that the leading support arm no much longer attaches to the camper.

Even the real assistance arms are intact. They are white metal (? The actual arms are completely normal/functionalI'm simply wanting to make certain we're not being taken in out of our anxiety (Camper Repair Norco).

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is damaged it has to be totally replaced? The RV is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the whole awning was brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like suggestions as to exactly how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - possibly even obtain us with the summertime - without having to place in an all new awning! We remain in a very severe bind since we have actually a trip prepared in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or held off.

If we have to go awning-less, we will, yet I prefer to discover a fast and reliable service. Any person? Please!.

Welcome to my Recreational Vehicle Restoration Collection!.?.!! I get on action 5 of changing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In the last action I removed the roof covering trim molding from 3 sides of the roof. Yet in order to remove the 4th one, I need to eliminate the motor home awning too.

In order to change the rubber roofing system and roof outdoor decking, I need to eliminate the awning. My Motor home awning has legs which pivot at the base but can be eliminated to set on the ground.

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You'll likewise discover how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back edge. That's why the awning needs ahead off initially before the final steps of this article (revealing the front and back edges of the roofing system outdoor decking).

Here's an information of just how the awning placing braces are screwed right into the camper. I didn't really need to do this step until the awning got on the ground however I discovered this established screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are removed, simply draw back on the bracket. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the motor home awning placing brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the installing bracket once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the termination bar that seals the rounded corner at the back of the roofing system.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning installing brace on the. Eliminating the installing bracket of the awning.

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To replace the roof covering, this awning bar requires to be gotten rid of. If you're just replacing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing system like me, then you wouldn't require to get rid of the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) easily. Now it's much like removing the side trim molding on the various other side of the camper. Take out the plastic insert that covers the screw heads (you may need to cut the end with an utility knife if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You might need to cut completion with an energy knife if it is wrapped under. Then simply yank it out! When the plastic screw cover insert was out I removed the screws with a cordless drill and the outlet head from my ratchet screwdriver set. This went rather promptly.

As soon as the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. Once I began to pry off the awning rail, the entire thing instantly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Once the screws are removed, the awning rail can be torn up. When you start pulling the awning rail away it will unexpectedly snap totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is hefty so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground little by little by strolling the legs away from the camper on each side one at a time till you can lay it on the ground. I turned the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from sliding in the rail. Once they're removed the rail just moves right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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When the 2 established screws were removed I could glide the entire awning rail right off the awning. One more look at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was removed.

The following point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed here. It has a plastic screw cover strip placed, so once again I simply pried up the plastic insert and pulled out enough so I might loosen some screw heads.

I might end up eliminating it later if I need to replace the luan plywood beneath this fiberglass shift. To raise that, the corner molding must be eliminated.

I could turn the trim mold off the side enough to raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that piece of edge molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has glue under it and little bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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I switched from a scrape to a rigid 6 wide putty blade. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I switched over from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping blade. Then I loosened up the various other corner trim similarly, and curved it sidewards just enough so that I might raise the side of the fiberglass panel.

I located a number of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll probably be replacing it. I had a considerable amount of water damages in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roof deck.

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It's just standing out through the staples. Lastly the side of the roof decking is exposed at the rear of the camper! OK! I have actually exposed the roof substratum at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to locate the front edge. Very same offer once again. Eliminate some screws from the edge trim holding back the fiberglass panel.

Once again, I tore that layer up too (there wasn't much holding it down yet adhesive at this point) and afterwards I might pull out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued underneath it. Now I can draw out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. It was simply glued. I started meticulously peeling it up. I can see heaven styrofoam insulation under the damaged areas of luan plywood on the roofing. Notification there are no bolts at all holding back the roof plywood! It is completely glued.

Once I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I got hold of a solid piece of plywood and began to draw. The whole point began to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape on the base that joins the assemble. I don't know just how specifically they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, yet it was well done. The items of roofing system ply are signed up with with each other at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roofing was losing strength and stiffness as I pulled up the top layer, so broke it off right before the initial seam. A close up of the metal framing in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Below's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I found a number of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof covering deck.

The side of the roof outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I have actually exposed the roofing system substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front edge.

Again, I pried that layer up as well (there had not been much quieting but glue now) and after that I might yank out the rest of the rubber roof covering that was glued beneath it. Camper Repair Norco. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

Camper Service Norco, CA

Camper Repair Shops Near Me Norco, CACamper Services Norco, CA


I discovered there were no fasteners holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation below the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof plywood!

When I scuffed up a few of the busted bits I got hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to draw. The entire thing started to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation in all. Now I could see the steel framework under. After that the plywood began peeling off up as one item, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a steel enhanced tape under that joins the items with each other. I don't know just how precisely they handled to glue every little thing down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, but it was well done. The pieces of roof ply are joined with each other at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly realized the roofing was losing stamina and tightness as I pulled up the top layer, so fractured it off prior to the first seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a half inches high. Here's a detail of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the solid timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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