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Camper Repair Shops Near Me Santa Ana

Published May 30, 25
11 min read

Camper Trailer Service Near Me Santa Ana, CA



OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rain, so today I deployed the awnings to dry them out.

It appears that concerning 18 to 24 inches of the metal extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has pulled away from the wall and twisted a little bit - Camper Repair Shops Near Me Santa Ana. I'm presuming the repair will require replacing that whole length of rain seamless gutter (10 feet?) and most likely making use of larger gauge screws to replace those that were taken out

We have actually got broken brackets on our camper awning. Two months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that created a curved axle, significant fixings, etc, and we wonder if the braces cracked/broke during the bouncy adventure before we understood the axle remained in difficulty. We have not had the awning out because it remained in the store to be repaired.

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The awning itself, springtime system, etc, is great. The back brace setting up is fine, however the front one is broken at the bottom and totally damaged through on top, so that the leading assistance arm no longer attaches to the camper. We remain in trouble. I don't want/like to camp without it.

Does this sound reasonable? Even the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the braces are a much heavier grey steel - it's the grey little bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are entirely normal/functionalI'm simply intending to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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Are they that brand-specific and exclusive that if one piece is broken it has to be completely changed? The recreational vehicle is a 2007, yet we had rainfall damages in 2010 and the entire awning was all new back then. If nothing else, we would certainly such as guidance as to how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - maybe also get us via the summertime - without having to place in a brand-new awning! We're in an extremely major bind because we have a trip planned in mid June that is not optional and can not be changed or held off.

If we need to go awning-less, we will, however I 'd rather find a quick and efficient service. Anybody? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof covering of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the fourth one, I need to get rid of the RV awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roof decking, I require to get rid of the awning. My recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base however can be gotten rid of to establish on the ground. I pulled these out. Pushing this bar releases the foot of the awning legs.

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You'll additionally discover how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds down the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning needs to find off initially before the last actions of this message (subjecting the front and back edges of the roofing outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning mounting brackets are screwed right into the camper. I didn't in fact need to do this step up until the awning was on the ground but I noticed this set screw below holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went on and unscrewed it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just draw back on the brace. Loosening the big lag screws that hold the RV awning mounting brackets to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Getting rid of the mounting bracket once the lag screws have been unscrewed. Keep in mind how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that secures the rounded corner at the rear of the roofing.

Both lag screws gotten rid of from the awning mounting brace on the right. Removing the mounting bracket of the awning. Once the mounting braces are detached, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Keep in mind, the awning rail is essentially similar to a routine item of light weight aluminum roof edge trim molding other than that at the lower edge there is a circular track with a slot in it.

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To change the roofing system, this awning bar needs to be eliminated. If you're just changing your awning and not fixing the whole roofing like me, after that you would not require to remove the awning rail.

Dropping the legs a few notches to decrease the entire awning. Currently I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) conveniently. Currently it's much like getting rid of the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Take out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to cut completion with an utility blade if it is tucked under the rail) and after that simply pull it out.

You might have to reduce completion with an utility knife if it is wrapped under. Simply tug it out! When the vinyl screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went pretty quickly.

Once the screws were out I started spying up the awning rail. When I began to tear off the awning rail, the whole point suddenly broke off and rolled up into the awning like a window blind.

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Simply know it's coming! As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. You can see the side of the rubber roofing that was attached under it. Once you start drawing the awning rail away it will instantly break totally free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This point is heavy so if you're working alone like me after that reduce it the ground gradually by walking the legs away from the camper on each side one by one till you can lay it on the ground. After that I flipped the legs back up and off the beaten track against the camper.

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Then I leaned the legs back against the camper. When the awning was on the ground I got rid of the little set screw at the right end of the awning, (I removed the one at the left end previously.) These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail just glides right off the canvas by sliding the whole rail to one side.

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As soon as the two set screws were removed I could slide the entire awning rail right off the awning. An additional appearance at the account of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of.

The following point holding down the rv fiberglass home siding panels is the edge trim molding revealed below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip inserted, so again I just pried up the vinyl insert and pulled out enough so I might unscrew some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later if I require to replace the luan plywood under this fiberglass change. To lift that, the edge molding must be eliminated.

I could turn the trim mold off the side sufficient to lift up the edge of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I could turn that piece of corner molding off the side, I began to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and bits of rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in position.

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At that factor I switched from a scrape to 6 inch large taping blade. I loosened up the various other corner trim in the very same method, and bent it sidewards just enough so that I might raise up the side of the fiberglass panel.

I discovered a lot of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll most likely be replacing it. Which suggests I'll end getting rid of those edge trim pieces all the means down. However we'll reach that later. I had a substantial quantity of water damages in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

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It's simply popping with the staples. The edge of the roof outdoor decking is subjected at the back of the camper! OK! I have actually subjected the roof substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge. Same bargain once more. Eliminate some screws from the corner trim holding down the fiberglass panel.

Again, I tore that layer up as well (there had not been much holding it down but glue now) and after that I might tug out the rest of the rubber roof that was glued below it. Now I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no fasteners holding the roofing system plywood down. I could see the blue styrofoam insulation beneath the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roof. Notification there are no bolts at all holding down the roofing system plywood!

As soon as I scuffed up a few of the busted little bits I acquired a solid item of plywood and started to pull. The entire point started to bring up cleanly unharmed without damaging the foam board insulation whatsoever. Currently I could see the steel framing under. But after that the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal strengthened tape on the base that joins the pieces with each other. I do not know just how precisely they managed to glue everything down so well and get this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was perfectly done. The pieces of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roof covering was losing toughness and tightness as I brought up the top layer, so broke it off prior to the initial seam. A close up of the metal framework in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's an information of the wiring in the insulation foam and the strong timber supports where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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I discovered a bunch of water damages in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. I had a substantial quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roofing system deck.

The side of the roof covering decking is subjected at the back of the camper! I've exposed the roofing system substratum at the back side of the camper. Now its time to locate the front side.

Again, I pried that layer up too (there wasn't much quieting however adhesive now) and after that I could tug out the remainder of the rubber roof covering that was glued underneath it. Camper Repair Shops Near Me Santa Ana. Currently I can pull out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from beneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roof plywood down. I might see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roof covering. Notification there are no fasteners at all holding down the roof covering plywood!

As soon as I scraped up some of the damaged bits I obtained hold of a strong item of plywood and started to draw. The whole point began to draw up easily in one piece without damaging the foam board insulation at all.

There is a metal enhanced tape under that joins the items together. I do not recognize exactly how precisely they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and get this tape joining them from the underside, but it was well done. The pieces of roof covering ply are joined with each other at the joints below with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I promptly understood the roofing system was shedding stamina and stiffness as I pulled up the leading layer, so cracked it off just before the first seam. A close up of the steel framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's an information of the circuitry in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing.

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