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West Covina Camper Repair Shops Near Me

Published Jun 06, 25
11 min read

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OCRV Center

23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
(714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

Most campers around us had their awnings released. We returned home yesterday in the rainfall, so today I released the awnings to dry them out.

It shows up that regarding 18 to 24 inches of the steel extrusion (gutter) that the awning is slid into has actually retreated from the wall surface and twisted a little bit - West Covina Camper Repair Shops Near Me. I'm assuming the repair will involve replacing that whole length of rainfall gutter (10 feet?) and most likely utilizing bigger gauge screws to change those that were pulled out

We've obtained broken braces on our camper awning. 2 months ago, we had a negative tire blow-out that triggered a curved axle, major repair services, and so on, and we wonder if the brackets cracked/broke during the bouncy ride prior to we realized the axle was in difficulty. We have not had the awning out since it was in the store to be fixed.

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The awning itself, spring device, and so on, is fine. The rear bracket assembly is great, but the front one is cracked at the bottom and completely damaged through at the top, so that the top assistance arm no longer affixes to the camper.

Does this audio affordable? Even the actual assistance arms are undamaged. They are white steel (? light weight aluminum?) and the brackets are a much heavier grey metal - it's the gray bits that have actually cracked/broken. The actual arms are totally normal/functionalI'm just wishing to make certain we're not being absorbed out of our desperation.

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The Recreational vehicle is a 2007, however we had rainfall damage in 2010 and the entire awning was brand name brand-new at that time. If absolutely nothing else, we would like guidance as to just how we can "jerry rig" this for a while - perhaps also obtain us through the summer season - without having to put in a brand new awning!

If we need to go awning-less, we will, yet I would certainly instead find a quick and effective option. Any person? Please!.

!! I'm on step 5 of replacing the roof of my '93 Fleetwood Jamboree Searcher motorhome. In order to remove the 4th one, I require to eliminate the Recreational vehicle awning.

In order to change the rubber roof and roof decking, I require to remove the awning. My Recreational vehicle awning has legs which pivot at the base yet can be eliminated to establish on the ground.

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You'll likewise notice how the brace is hooked on top of the trim molding that holds back the fiberglass panel in the back corner. That's why the awning requires to find off first before the final actions of this post (subjecting the front and back sides of the roof covering outdoor decking).

Right here's an information of how the awning placing brackets are screwed into the camper. I didn't really have to do this step till the awning was on the ground however I discovered this established screw right here holding the awning canvas right into the awning rail (there's another at the appropriate end of the awning.) I went on and loosened it.

Once both screws are eliminated, just draw back on the brace. Loosening the large lag screws that hold the motor home awning installing braces to the camper (with an outlet wrench) Eliminating the placing brace once the lag screws have actually been unscrewed. Note just how this end was hooked over the discontinuation bar that seals the rounded edge at the rear of the roofing.

Both lag screws removed from the awning placing bracket on the right. Getting rid of the installing bracket of the awning. When the mounting braces are separated, it's time to eliminate the awning rail. Remember, the awning rail is basically similar to a routine item of light weight aluminum roofing edge trim molding except that at the lower edge there is a round track with a slot in it.

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To replace the roof, this awning bar needs to be removed. Below's an appearance at the round network at the base of the awning rail. The canvas for the awning slides right into this track. Directs! If you're simply replacing your awning and not repairing the entire roof covering like me, then you wouldn't require to eliminate the awning rail.

Going down the legs a few notches to reduce the entire awning. Now I can reach this trim molding (the awning rail) quickly. Currently it's much like eliminating the side trim molding beyond of the camper. Pull out the vinyl insert that covers the screw heads (you might need to reduce completion with an utility knife if it is put under the rail) and after that just tug it out.

You might need to cut completion with an energy knife if it is covered under. Then just tug it out! Once the vinyl screw cover insert was out I got rid of the screws with a cordless drill and the socket head from my ratchet screwdriver collection. This went rather swiftly.

Once the screws were out I began prying up the awning rail. As soon as I started to tear off the awning rail, the whole thing unexpectedly snapped off and rolled up into the awning like a home window blind.

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As soon as the screws are gotten rid of, the awning rail can be pried up. Once you start pulling the awning rail away it will all of a sudden break free and roll up like a window blind with the awning.

This thing is heavy so if you're working alone like me then lower it the ground bit by bit by walking the legs away from the camper on each side individually up until you can lay it on the ground. Then I flipped the legs back up and out of the means versus the camper.

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These screws keep the awning canvas from gliding in the rail. Once they're eliminated the rail simply glides right off the canvas by sliding the entire rail to one side.

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As soon as the two set screws were eliminated I might glide the entire awning rail straight off the awning. Review at the profile of this trim molding (the awning rail) after it was gotten rid of. Woo hoo! The awning is off! The last step prior to I can remove the old roof outdoor decking is to reveal the ends of it where the fiberglass panels overlap it at the front and rear of the camper.

I tore them out as finest I could. The fiberglass skin over the rounded change had some rusty staples stifling. I tore them out as finest I could. The next point holding down the recreational vehicle fiberglass exterior siding panels is the edge trim molding shown below. It has a vinyl screw cover strip put, so once again I simply tore up the plastic insert and took out enough so I could loosen some screw heads.

I may finish up removing it later if I need to replace the luan plywood underneath this fiberglass change. The roof decking plywood prolongs under the fiberglass skin at the rear of the camper. In order to replace it, this fiberglass shift have to be raised. To lift that, the corner molding have to be gotten rid of.

I might swing the trim mold and mildew off the side enough to raise up the side of the fiberglass panel. As soon as I can turn that item of corner molding off the side, I started to tear up the fiberglass panel. It has adhesive under it and littles rusted staples and sheared off screws still holding it in place.

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I changed from a scraper to a stiff 6 large putty knife. This item broke out of the fiberglass panel when I was trying to tear it up. Then I changed from a scraper to 6 inch broad taping knife. Then I loosened the other edge trim similarly, and curved it sideways just sufficient so that I might raise up the edge of the fiberglass panel.

I found a bunch of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be changing it. Which means I'll end getting rid of those corner trim pieces all the means down. We'll get to that later. I had a substantial amount of water damage in the joint in between the rounded corner and the roof deck.

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The side of the roof decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roofing substrate at the back side of the camper. Currently its time to discover the front edge.

Once again, I pried that layer up also (there wasn't much quieting however adhesive now) and afterwards I can tug out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued below it. Currently I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood.

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I observed there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was simply glued. I started very carefully peeling it up. I might see heaven styrofoam insulation under the damaged locations of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no bolts whatsoever holding back the roofing plywood! It is totally glued.

As soon as I scraped up some of the damaged little bits I obtained hold of a strong piece of plywood and started to pull. The whole thing started to pull up easily in one piece without harming the foam board insulation at all.

There is a steel reinforced tape on the bottom that joins the pieces together. I do not recognize how precisely they took care of to adhesive every little thing down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the underside, however it was perfectly done. The items of roofing ply are collaborated at the seams below with a metal-reinforced tape.

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I promptly recognized the roofing was losing toughness and tightness as I brought up the leading layer, so fractured it off prior to the first joint. A close of the metal framework in the roof covering: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the solid timber reinforcements where the antennas screw into the roofing system.

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I located a lot of water damage in the plywood under the fiberglass panel so I'll possibly be replacing it. Which means I'll end eliminating those corner trim items right down besides. Yet we'll reach that later on. I had a considerable quantity of water damage in the joint in between the rounded edge and the roofing deck.

The edge of the roofing system outdoor decking is revealed at the back of the camper! I've subjected the roofing substrate at the back edge of the camper. Currently its time to find the front side.

Once more, I tore that layer up also (there had not been much holding it down yet glue at this factor) and then I can pull out the remainder of the rubber roofing that was glued underneath it. West Covina Camper Repair Shops Near Me. Now I can take out the last little bit of rubber roof covering from underneath the fiberglass and luan plywood

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I discovered there were no bolts holding the roofing plywood down. It was just glued. I began thoroughly peeling it up. I can see the blue styrofoam insulation under the harmed areas of luan plywood on the roofing system. Notice there are no fasteners in all holding back the roof plywood! It is entirely glued.

When I scuffed up a few of the busted bits I obtained hold of a solid item of plywood and began to pull. The entire point started to bring up easily intact without harming the foam board insulation at all. Now I might see the steel framework beneath. But then the plywood started peeling up as one piece, leaving all the styrofoam well undamaged.

There is a metal reinforced tape under that joins the assemble. I don't know exactly how precisely they managed to adhesive whatever down so well and obtain this tape joining them from the bottom, yet it was nicely done. The pieces of roof ply are signed up with together at the joints underneath with a metal-reinforced tape.

OCRV Center

Address: 23281 La Palma Ave Yorba Linda, CA 92887
Phone: (714) 909-1444
OCRV Center

I rapidly recognized the roofing was shedding toughness and tightness as I pulled up the leading layer, so broke it off just prior to the first joint. A close of the steel framing in the roof: one inch wide, one and a fifty percent inches tall. Right here's a detail of the electrical wiring in the insulation foam and the strong wood reinforcements where the antennas screw right into the roof covering.

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